From: SandyTesha@aol.com
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 15:18:55 EDT
Subject: Visiting Ground Zero

Saturday, September 15, 2001

Hi again -

I hope these emails aren't getting to be too much. I thought I'd be done
writing by now, but I have just seen so much - and wish you could see it all
too. Well, you know what I mean. What I really wish is that none of this
had ever happened to begin with, but that's besides the point. Thank you
again for reading my take on this whole situation.

Today I walked over the Manhattan Bridge, which has been opened to traffic,
both vehicular and pedestrian. (The Manhattan Bridge connects the lower east
side of Manhattan to Brooklyn, offering views of the the Brooklyn Bridge, the
Statue of Liberty past that, and the financial district in Lower Manhattan.)
The city still looks beautiful, it was a gorgeous day today - and the sun
shone brightly off the waters below as well as the buildings in the Wall
Street/Financial District just beyond the Brooklyn Bridge. I have to say I
do not know the skyline well from this vantage point; the only way I knew
exactly where the twin towers once stood was from the smoke (the acrid smell
was pretty bad over the bridge) that still rose from the middle of the lower
portion of the city amidst all the other "tall" buildings of the financial
district. I am used to seeing the city in the way most people are, I think;
I remember the skyline from the West, coming in from the Jersey side on the
trains or the turnpike - approaching the city you can (could) see and
recognize the twin towers, then the Empire State Building and the Chrysler
Building stretching further north. I don't think I will believe what has
happened until I again see the city from this vantage point myself. Maybe.
An Asian man who was wearing a "Team USA" basketball jersey had gotten off
his bike to stop and take in the view. I asked him if he had biked this
route often, and he said "no, I usually take the Brooklyn Bridge into the
city... the view is much nicer from this bridge though - not that this is all
that nice to look at - well -you know what I mean. It will never be the
same." Looking at the Brooklyn Bridge you could see a steady stream of
emergency vehicles and trucks silently going back and forth from Manhattan to
Brooklyn, red and yellow lights flashing.

The Manhattan Bridge empties out on the Manhattan side in the heart of
Chinatown. As the bridge declined to meet the street level, the foulest
stench of fish and seafood from the markets below rose up to the bridge. It
was the most wonderful smell in the world, after the horrible odor of the
burning buildings.

At the base of the bridge, a Chinese woman was shouting into a megaphone the
same 20-second speech over and over again, in Chinese of course. Hundreds of
Chinese and Aisan-Americans had set up tables and were selling their usual
"crap", i.e. souvenirs and American flags and "I Love New York"
paraphernalia. They had several huge glass containers, with signs reading
"ALL SALES WILL BE DONATED TO THE NYPD AND THE NYFD AND THEIR FAMILIES."

Walking through Chinatown I saw that every single establishment was just
plastered with American flags. Some were backwards, but it's the thought
that counts I guess. The streets were nowhere near as crowded as they should
be on a Saturday, though. Mostly just the locals, all speaking rapidly and
passionately in small groups on every street corner. Even though they were
speaking Chinese you could tell what they were discussing as they gestured
towards the smoke to the west.

The National Guard had opened the streets to pedestrian traffic to Chambers
Street, just below where I served Jury Duty in April. (Ah, those were the
days. I would rather be a juror for 5 weeks straight on the most boring
trail imaginable than to be seeing some of this stuff.) I started following
throngs of people to the general direction of the disaster, just so curious,
and still not believing, wanting to see ANYTHING that would make it real for
me.

What I saw was pretty much what I've been seeing on TV - the crowds were
right there with the press on Church Street, about 6 or 7 blocks directly
above where the twin towers stood. You could see only smoke, and lots of
dust and ash. The National Guards were yelling at people to keep moving,
keep moving, get out of the road, etc. I can't believe they actually LET
people get this close. They really want things to "return to normal", I
guess, as businesses down here and the NYSE are supposed to be open on Monday
(!). There was no real danger, but we must have been slowing things down
somewhat. Crowds were lining the streets, and every time some sort of
NYPD/FD vehicle came by the crowds burst into cheers and applause. The men
and women in uniform waved flags and smiled back from the cars and trucks,
giving everyone the thumbs-up.

I passed a parked US Govt. car that was covered with about 3 inches of "ash".
A National Guard yelled at someone: "sir do NOT touch the CAR that is
FEDERAL EVIDENCE!" The National Guard soldiers are pretty scary. I know
they're here for our safety, but its just so strange to see camouflaged
soldiers on our streets. Every now and then overhead a huge army-green
National Guard helicopter would fly by at an uncomfortably low altitude. It
was so loud, and added to the feel of the "battle zone" that this was
becoming (is?).

I walked by Engine No. 7 Fire Department, in front it had a small makeshift
memorial on the sidewalk, plastered with missing persons photos, many of them
fire fighters. Walking on deserted ghost-town streets inbetween the main
north/south drags I saw 2 police trucks, completely destroyed, mangled and
partially blackened. They looked like play-props from a movie set.
I kept walking West towards the West Side Highway where most of the recovery
stations were located. Looking south on the streets all you could see was
smoke (they say it wall take 6- 8 weeks to put out the fires below the
wreckage?!?) - and then crossing over West Broadway I glanced down and saw
the remains of one of the towers, the 4 or 5 floors that were still standing,
what you see on TV on all the stations right now. It looked like an aluminum
foil with holes punched in it that had been crudely ripped apart. You could
see straight through the windows to the other side. All the smoke made it
even more surreal.

I saw it, and I STILL don't believe it.

Coming back up the West side highway to Canal Street I saw hundreds of
people, again cheering, offering support, carrying signs, just getting out
and trying to do SOMETHING. The sheer amount of people involved in the
recovery/rebuilding effort is enormous! Above the barricades there are so
many memorials set up on sidewalks and in every square and park available.
Along Canal Street there were hundreds of yellow ribbons tied to a long iron
fence, all with messages on them. I'm sure many of you have seen the same
outpouring of support in your own towns and cities and across the world.
It's pretty amazing.

****
Before coming over the Manhattan bridge and experiencing the above, I visited
the Greenwood Cemetery, where a monument stood honoring "National Heroes"
that I wanted to see again. It stands on the highest point in Brooklyn,
overlooking the Statue of Liberty, the New York Harbor and lower Manhattan.
Next to the monument is a statue of a goddess, raising her right arm in the
direction of the Statue of Liberty. Looking down the hills and over the
water you can see Lady Liberty looking right back at you, raising her torch
in return to the goddess' salute. I was hoping to see others here, to talk
to people and share, but I did not see another living soul the entire time I
was there. It was so very peaceful and quiet.

I want to share with you what the plaque reads - please know, I don't want to
get overly mushy or patriotic, but I almost can't help it with the recent
turn of events, especially being so close to everything. Here's what is says:

"Glory to the memory of our first National Heroes who fought and fell on this
Battle ground to win our liberty and independence!
Minerva, the goddess of wisdom, glory and patriotism here salutes the goddess
of liberty and enwreaths this alter in tribute to the heroes of American
liberty and to the wisdom of American Institutions."

This just made me think of all the firemen that lost thier lives here. I
pray no more men and women are lost as a result of this tragedy. I hope you
and yours are doing OK. Thank you for sharing your stories with me - it's so
good to hear from people I know as well as to read/watch the news accounts
and know that we are not alone here on this little island.

Stay safe.
Love,
Sandy

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